It starts with a creak in the night, a branch scraping against the windowpane during a storm. Or maybe it's a quieter realization, as you look out at your backyard and notice the oak that's been a silent sentinel for decades now looks a little tired, a little overgrown, its limbs tangling with the power lines. However it arrives, the question eventually comes to mind: "I need to find someone to take care of this tree."
This is a major choice. A tree is much more than a landscaping feature. Specifically, a tree is a living asset that provides beauty and shade to your lawn and could potentially pose a hazardous risk as it ages. Finding the right individual or company to handle this job is much more than typing in "tree trimming and removal near me" in a search bar. The decision is ultimately handing valuable aspects of your property over to someone to care for. This guide is intended to help you through the entire process beginning with learning why your tree needs action to shaking hands with the arborist as they remove the tree safely and with an agreed upon job well done. I will try not to get overly caught up in the marketing of it all, so I will create the handouts that you might need to know or do, if anything, in order to do so as the homeowner.
That is the precise question that needs addressed, and the answer may or may not, always be clear. Once you have decided, to trim or remove trees, there will be more to consider than is in this matter, more ramifications (both to your budget and landscape), as well as implications that could have longer-term, either longer or shorter time implications although they may not, could not or might not carry any immediate implications for your home, or neighborhood.
Consider tree trimming (whatever the professionals might call do socially is actually correctly: pruning) to be akin to preventive health care as it relates to the tree, and a type of cosmetic surgery as it relates to overall appearance. Trimming is not only for aesthetics or tidiness but for growing trees in a particular direction along with private purposes to hold structure or look good. You should consider tree trimming for any of the following:
Health & Vigor: Essentially, we remove dead, diseased, whilst damaging parts of a limb which is similar to lancing a wound to keep it from going bad, by removing infection before it infects the healthy tissue they both need removed. Removing branches allows the tree to redirect energy to new healthy growth. Reducing the leaf coverage also aids in transpiration from leaves to improve the airflow and the sunlight, which are critical to the health of the tree and plants growing under the tree.
Safety and Clearance - This is probably the most common reason homeowners ask us to call. Limbs that hang over your roof, rub on your siding, or grow near overhead electric lines are dangerous. A skilled pruner can limb up trees (remove lower limbs) or reduce the tree's canopy to create safe distances, while also keep the natural shape of the tree intact as much as possible.
Shape and Aesthetics - Maybe you have a really nice flowering crabapple, that has become somewhat of a wild mess. Or perhaps you have a once lovely pine, that is now lopsided or unkempt looking. Pruning can help you reform the shape of a tree, create a better bloom, or simply keep a formal landscape more clean and functioning.
View Management - If you have a view of something beautiful, often times a few cuts will create a window to the world beyond your tree, where you frame the view, rather than hide it from view.
This typically is the more difficult decision to make; it usually involves removing a fully-established tree and will feel final (the loss of shade or history, the loss of habitat). However, sometimes it is the only responsible decision.
The tree is dead or dying. A tree that is dead, or on the verge of becoming dead, is not simply an eye sore (though it is that); it is a ticking time bomb. As the wood rots away it does become very brittle and unpredictable. A dead tree has the potential to fall, dropping debris downward, potentially impaling-or falling onto-people (not to mention, neighbors sleeping). There are limits to how long you can wait.
It has irreparable disease or damage - Sometimes trees get struck by lightning, or they have a disease, like oak wilt, or a critical storm happens and that can cause so much damage that it essentially is not safe to keep the tree. An arborist can help you evaluate whether the tree has a fighting chance or if it should be removed to help protect surrounding trees and structures.
It has severe structural problems. This could be internal problems that can develop, such as deep cracks or cavities within the trunk, rot in the roots, or severe leaning to indicate the root mass is failing. The inherent instability of the tree is being displayed, and pruning will not address these issues.
Changes to construction or landscaping: If you're adding to your house, putting in a pool, or just redesigning your entire landscape, a tree may be in the way. For these reasons, tree removal starts to make sense, even if it's painful. Not to mention, you may notice in a lot of towns and cities throughout the USA, if it's a healthy tree over a certain diameter, or a protected tree, you'll need a permit to remove it. A reputable tree service will likely know this already, and even help you through the process.
This is where your simple a search on the internet becomes complicated. Searching "tree trimming and removal near me USA", will bring up an endless supply of tree service operations ranging from a one man operation with a truck and chainsaw, to large corporate owned companies with fleets of bucket trucks. How do you filter through everything? The first step to take is to stop looking for "tree service". The word "service" can be eliminated from your search results, and the next step is changing to searching for "arborist". An "arborist" is a trained person working in the care of trees. The gold standard, when you're searching for one, is "ISA Certified Arborist®", which is a certification from the International Society of Arboriculture they get for passing a long test and then to continue there education. Certification does not mean they know how to make a cut; it means they know tree biology, soil science, appropriate pruning cuts, and diagnosis. They are like board-certified doctors for trees.
So what you are now looking for isn't "tree service near me" but "ISA Certified Arborist near me."
Word of mouth: This is still the gold standard. Ask your neighbors for referrals, especially if you have seen their trees cared for professionally. So people aren't shy about telling you about their positive experience. And they will equally tell you who to stay away from if they had a negative experience.
ISA's TreesAreGood.org: This is the official public resource of the ISA. In it, you will find a "Find an Arborist" tool to help you locate and search for certified arborists from your zip code.
Local Reviews (caveat emptor): Sites like Google, Yelp, and Nextdoor could be slightly helpful to you, but you will need to read between the lines. You are looking for reviews that tell of detailed breakdown of their punctuality and cleanliness and communication and care of the tree (and your property) in that exchange. Be wary of companies with only a few positive reviews as well being vague.
Your Local Nursery: Usually the staff of a good, independent garden center will have their ear to the ground around the local horticultural community and might even give you recommendations of arborists they like.
Now, when you feel like you have narrowed it to two to three companies, this is when you would take it to the next level. An established company should anticipate this, and it should be able to answer your inquiry with confidence.
1. Validate Insurance: Non-negotiable. Anyone who works on your property must have Liability Insurance and Workers' Compensation Insurance. Don't just take their word for it; ask for the insurance certificates, and call the insurance provider to validate their insurance. If an uninsured worker falls from a tree, or drops a branch onto your home, you the homeowner may be liable for enormous medical and repair bills. This is by far the single most important step to protect yourself.
2. Complaint History: Check with the Better Business Bureau (BBB) and your state attorney general's office for any serious complaints.
3. References: A confident company will have no problem giving you a list of recent customers. Take 5 minutes and call and ask how their experience went.
4. On-Site, Detailed Estimate: Be cautious of any company that quotes you over the phone without seeing the tree. A serious professional will want to come to your yard and see the condition of the tree, the location of the tree, access issues, and hazards on the premises. Also, you will want to assess them in your meeting: do they exhibit professional knowledge? do they listen to what you have to say? do they articulate their proposed method of approach? Narratively, you want to see this as your meeting or interview meeting.
5. Comprehend Estimate: It is recommended that it be documented, and it be very specific. Does it mention everything? Cutting and cleaning up and disposal of all logs and debris? Or, is it stumping and hauling logs is an extra charge? If the estimate is vague, then that is a red flag you should pay attention to.
This is an oldie but a goodie. After a significant weather event there are unethical "storm chasers" that will go door to door offering repairs that are small and quick and cheap. They often use pressure tactics, want upfront payment, especially for materials, and produce poor, dangerous work and then disappear shortly thereafter. A legitimate busy company does not need to solicit work in this fashion.
When you have chosen a company, that is when the real work starts. It helps to understand what happens in order to know what good service feels like.
The Setup - A crew (typically more than one person) will arrive on the date of service and assess the area of work immediately. They will lay out safety cones and potentially rope off the work area to keep everyone away. They will have one last conversation, verifying the intentions and identifying the primary drop zones for large pieces.
The Climb or the Lift - Depending on where the tree is and how tall it is, they are typically experienced (and certified) arborists who will climb the tree using ropes and harness, which you may hear called "rope and saddle" work, or they will use an aerial lift (bucket truck). Each method has its place. Climbing is frequently necessary for situations in tighter areas when a truck cannot access them, but for some tasks a bucket truck would be quicker and safer.
The Technique: Rigging and Sectioning: They will not simply start cutting it apart from the bottom. A guy that knows how to climb will cut it into pieces from the top down. It is a complicated rigging system that is controlled to lower large limbs and sections of the trunk down so no damage is caused to your lawn, garden, fences and/or house. Watching an expert climber mark and maneuver a large limb into place to hit the exact point is like watching a ballet of physics and strength.
The Cleanup: This is what separates the professionals from the amateurs. The job is not done simply because the tree is laying on the ground. A professional crew will run woodchippers to chip up the brush, cut the main trunk and large pieces of wood down to manageable lengths (and typically offer to leave you the wood for firewood, if you want), and then they will rake and clean the entire area afterwards. They should leave your property looking as clean, or cleaner, than when they started.
Stump Grinding: Estimates to remove trees typically do not include stump grinding. This is a completely separate service where we use a machine to grind the top of the stump down, and also some surface roots, to below ground level. It is the last step if you want to re-plant in the same area or have a level lawn.
It is impossible to give one number for tree work in the USA because of the variations in pricing. Trimming a tree that is simple to reach could cost a few hundred dollars; removing a large hazardous tree that is difficult to get to could be in the thousands! An estimate depends on the following:
Tree Size and Species: A 30-foot maple is different than an 80-foot pine.
Location and Access: A tree in an open field is easy; a tree right next to your house and the neighbors fence hanging over a shed is very complicated and time-consuming!
Condition: A dead brittle tree is more dangerous and more technically difficult than a healthy one.
Job Complexity: Does it have to involve a crane? Do you have to work near power lines requiring the lines to be de-energized by the utility company?
Local Rates: Costs in rural Iowa will be different than a suburban Connecticut or urban California.
The best approach is to get those detailed written estimates from the companies you are looking at. Do not just go with the lowest price. The lowest price may end up being the most expensive price overall, through damage to your property, the health of your tree, or an insurance nightmare. Think of value: part of what you are paying for is their expertise, being insured, their equipment and reputation.
After your relationship with a professional tree care company is formed, a good relationship does not have to end when the truck and the chipper drive away. If you have found an arborist you trust to guide you through the year managing the health of your landscape, you have a partner formed. They are able to provide expert advice about caring for your established trees, recommend varieties for new planting, and establish a routine maintenance program that will keep everything looking great for years.
Knowing when to schedule your tree work can save you money and/or result in a better outcome. As with most things in horticulture, timing matters more than most homeowners think.
Surprisingly, late fall through very early spring, generally speaking, is the best time to do most tree removals and to make major pruning cuts. Here are several practical reasons:
First, when you prune deciduous trees during the dormant season, you do not risk bleeding a lot of sap, since they are dormant. This is particularly a factor if you need to prune maples, birches, and walnuts, where sap is vital to the tree and they can bleed a lot of sap if pruned during the growing season.
On a more practical level, tree work is typically easier and safer in the winter. Removing leaves allows arborists to see the tree structure and exactly what they are dealing with: every dead branch, everything crossing, every potential weak point. A frozen ground is also able to support heavy equipment used to do the work, where soft spring soil may not.
You might even not have thought about: price, as it is the slow season for tree companies. Many companies offer discounts during these months to keep their crews busy. If your tree work is not urgent, try to schedule it for January or February if you can.
There are a few exceptions however. First, please do not prune oak trees between the months of April and October in areas where oak wilt disease is prevalent. This is most of the Midwest and part of Texas. Fresh cuts can attract beetles that spread this devastating fungal disease.
Spring is when you should be looking at your trees, not cutting them. Problems will emerge in the spring! A branch that looked like it was completely fine all winter just may not leaf out. Of course, any storm damage (like broken or hanging branches) that wasn't apparent in the snow will be now! I want you to use the spring as your assessment time, be ready to schedule work to be done the following winter.
There are a few exceptions where the heat of the summer really can create a better outcome for the tree. In many cases, fruit trees can be pruned in late winter to early spring right before bud break. The process of pruning fruit trees in this period is great for the healthy production of fruit, and you get a clear idea of the structure of the tree. Pruning during this time merely causes less stress.
Summer: Emergency Only
Summer pruning should be limited to storm damaged limbs or immediate safety issues. Trees are doing their best to convert sunshine and grow during the summer. To make the tree, winter, is really a potential for stress. To make fresh cuts are not ideal for summer trees and can certainly be subject to insect and disease problems. If you must do any summer work, keep it light cleaning the tree, safely removing any extensive correcting, or anything obvious. Leave the major work for winter.
Fall: Prepare, Don't Cut
Everyone wants to get your tree work done in fall. It is nice out now, and likely thinking about getting your property ready for the winter! Fall is probably one of the worst times of year to legal cut trees. Trees are moving energy down to their roots to prepare for winter. Major cuts could really disrupt this flow as appropriate as possible.
Use this time of year to plan on your trees. Now is a great time to have the arborist look at and assess trees for work that can be done in the winter months.
If you want to be educated and feel comfortable with what you want to ask to take care of your tree, it helps to understand just a little about how trees actually work. You will become a more educated consumer when you talk with an arborist and can notice if some is giving you bad information.
Unlike humans, trees are not going to heal! Trees actually compartmentalize wounds. When branches are cut off or bark is damaged the tree does not make up the tissue. There is simply a wall of new growth around the cut. The tree does its best to isolate the damaged area from decay spreading.
This process is called CODIT—Compartmentalization of Decay in Trees—and understanding it explains why proper cutting technique is so important. When an arborist makes a cut, they're not just removing wood; they're creating a wound that the tree will have to live with for the rest of its life. A proper cut, made just outside the branch collar (that slight swelling where the branch meets the trunk), allows the tree to compartmentalize effectively. A flush cut or a cut that leaves a stub interferes with this natural process.
This is why those old-fashioned tree pruning techniques—like cutting flush with the trunk or leaving long stubs—are now known to be harmful. A real arborist understands tree biology and cuts accordingly.
Most people dramatically underestimate the extent of a tree's root system. The old rule of thumb that roots extend to the "drip line" (the edge of the canopy) is actually conservative. Most tree roots extend well beyond the drip line, frequently two to three times as much. Additionally, most of the tree's roots are in the upper 12-18 inches of soil, not deep underground as some may think.
This shallow and wide-ranging root system means trees are surprisingly vulnerable to compaction, grade changes, or damage from construction. Understanding this fact helps explain some of the tree problems that seem to be shrouded in mystery. A tree may begin to decline two to three years after the year construction is completed, not because it was damaged immediately, but that its root system was compromised by soil compaction from heavy equipment or damage to the roots from trenching.
Even though some homeowners and dishonest tree service companies continue to top trees, which means cutting a tree back or indiscriminately cut back to stubs, arborists and urban foresters agree that tree topping is a universally bad practice, not only for aesthetic reasons, but for biological reasons as well.
When all of the canopy of the tree is removed, the tree loses the ability to produce food via photosynthesis and is left with the same root system to maintain. The tree responds to the loss of foliage by pushing out vigorous shoots from every possible location, resulting in the characteristic "bottle brush" look of topped trees.
These new shoots are attached weakly and frequently fail when they grow out further. While these shoots are vigorous, they do not develop the strong attachment to the trunk that their normal branches developed over many years. In a few years, topped trees often become even more dangerous than they were before being topped.
If a tree is not adequately sized for its surroundings, you either have the option of removal, or performing selective crown reduction with a qualified arborist by trimming branches back to lateral branches that are at least one-third the diameter of the cut branch. This will decrease the size of the tree while also preserving its form.
Knowing the signs of a bad tree service will have you save money, prevent property damage, and potentially avoid legal problems. Here are the signs Big Red Flags should have you on the lookout elsewhere:
I alluded to this above, but I must repeat: be cautious of anyone that shows up at your home unsolicited. This is especially true after a storm. Legitimate tree services are generally busy enough that they do not need to solicit business this way. Storm chasers are notorious for this tactic and will employ high-pressure techniques, demand payment upfront, and many may not be from your local area. Storm chasers are typically those who are performing unsafe work fast and flying under the radar before you realize there is a problem.
Legitimate businesses all take checks, credit cards, comply with record keeping with receipts, and have legitimate business practices—if you are requesting cash only, that right there is a huge, and I mean HUGE, RED FLAG. They most likely are not licensed, insured, or paying taxes if they are relying on cash only.
This is one of the most well-known high pressure sales tactics. Good tree work has pretty stable pricing based on physical work, complexity and risk. Be cautious about anyone who will provide drastic discounts for an immediate promise.
Tree work requires safe and efficient specialized equipment. If a crew arrives without proper safety equipment, or with equipment that clearly looks "homemade" or "redneck," that's a red flag. Professional climbers should have appropriate harnesses, ropes, and helmets. If they are wearing construction hard hats instead of climbing helmets, or if their ropes look frayed, consider that a red flag.
A reputable arborist will most likely brag about their credentials and will be happy to prove their insurance. If he or she seems to hedge on his or her credentials, or if they repeatedly use the phrase, "my insurance is in the truck" but he or she never retrieves or presents it, take your business elsewhere.
As mentioned above, topping trees or encouraging this practice is harmful to trees. If any tree services you speak with simply recommend topping, or use other phrases (like dehorning or heading back) that are euphemisms for topping, this person does not understand tree care enough to be confidently caring for your tree.
If an estimate is extremely low in comparison to other bids, be suspicious of their explanations. If one was given an estimate of $500 where other bids were around $2000, take caution. If they do not know or value the work involved in your estimate, they may compromise on safety or clean up (or both) or may charge you $300 thereafter for cleanup.
As you become more involved in tree care, you may find yourself in situations that actually require a specialized service to go beyond regular removal or pruning beyond surface trunk work.
A professional tree service can be activated into an emergency. Most good companies will have some sort of plan for handling storms and a way to prioritize various jobs based on safety—trees on houses or in the roadway will get addressed first, then trees that are leaning on structures or are threatening to come down.
Emergency storm work is often billed at a higher rate, and it surely warrants a higher price in many cases. Crews are working in dangerous conditions—sometimes around downed power lines and other unstable trees—in sometimes miserable conditions. If you need to ask for emergency tree service, then safety should be your primary concern—not price.
Certain trees may be too large, too close, or too tight for the standard methods of removal, and it may be wise for arborists to use a crane to lift larger pieces of the tree away from any obstacles. Crane work requires specific knowledge, often communicating the crane operator, the climber, and the ground crew, and often includes an additional cost. However, when it makes sense, it is often the best and safest option for an unsafe tree removal.
In addition to pruning and removal, many arborists provide tree health care. This could include soil testing, amendments, fertilizers, business and landscape pest and disease management, and treatments such as deep root fertilization and trunk injection for systemic pesticides. These services are obviously provided by qualified and knowledgeable arborists with specific certifications. Look for arborists that also provide tree health care or have practical knowledge of plant pathology or entomology.
At times a tree with structural weaknesses can be supported with cabling and bracing systems. High in the canopy, steel cables can assist in redistributing loads from weak branches or mutually dominant stems. Bracing rods can be inserted through weak unions for additional support. This is very specialized work and requires a skill set that incorporates engineering principles along with arboricultural knowledge. Not all tree services will provide these items, which are not appropriate for all situations, but in some situations they can save a valuable tree that would otherwise be cut down.
When deliberating on tree care you may also contemplate trees as collective community aspects not just individual aspects of a landscape. Trees provide multiple environmental benefits that extend way beyond your property line.
In study after study, mature trees on residential properties have been proven to add value, ranging anywhere from 3 percent to 15 percent of the value of the property depending on the species, size and condition of the trees. However these benefits go well beyond your property value. Two large trees could save you a couple hundred dollars ~ every year ~ in energy savings with summer cooling and winter windbreak.
Trees also have what economists refer to as 'ecosystem services'- benefits to the adjoined community. A mature oak tree large enough can intercept more than 2,000 gallons of rainfall/year which can mitigate the stormwater runoff. A single tree can produce enough oxygen for a person's 2 year supply, while sequestering 48 pounds of carbon dioxide. A mature tree provides habitat for wildlife and moderates the urban heat island effect.
When removing a tree, think about replacing it not only for aesthetic purposes but also to help maintain those environmental benefits. A tree will not provide the same service as a mature tree for decades. If you are taking down a tree that is considered a nuisance due to its poor health, to lessen that loss consider replacing it with more than one tree, or intentionally select a species for replacement that would generate a larger proportion than the tree that has been lost.
Some municipalities have ordinances that govern tree loss that require some form of mitigation.
One frequent source of tree problems is conflicts with utility lines. If you have trees near overhead utility lines, it may be best to become familiar with utility tree care. Utility companies have the right to prune trees that interfere with any utility lines. But just realize that professionals with a utility company may be simply concerned with line clearance and not with the health of your tree.
Utility line clearance generally does not produce the prettiest or biologically healthy tree-pruning regime. However, on occasion, you could pay for a certified arborist who is capable of utility line clearance work who can do the work to utility company standards while being more toward the health of the tree. With any such effort, check with your utility company policies because some utility companies will reimburse you for the qualified professional tree trimming work.
The best method of tree care is prevention. Regular maintenance of property trees by a qualified arborist can prevent many of the issues that lead to emergency removals.
Just like you may have a landscaper for your lawn or a contractor for maintenance to your home, you may want to establish a relationship with an arborist who will take care of your tree care, and thereby, avoid many of the problems that may lead to emergencies. Many arboriculture services offer maintenance contracts that may include some or all of the following depending on the level of service you select: regular inspections, pruning on a rotation basis, and expedited service for storm damage.
A typical maintenance plan may include:
The first few years of a tree's life in your landscape are the most critical time. Appropriate care of the tree is necessary for it to become well established. Establishing good structure and proper care during this period can help prevent issues that may lead to expensive corrective work or removal many decades later.
Young tree care includes proper watering of trees (deep, infrequent watering is better than frequent shallow watering), appropriate mulching (not piled against the trunk), and structural pruning to develop a good branch architecture. Appropriate attention during these early years can help prevent many issues later on.
You may want to keep a record of tree care work completed on your trees including, dates of pruning, treatment or observations of tree health. Tree care may not be routine, but if care happens to be needed in the future that can be a very useful tool when determining care decisions, insurance claims, and/or permit applications.
Caring for property trees is a major responsibility, but it is worthwhile because caring for your trees is an investment in your safety and beauty, and ultimately, your property's value. If you can look to move beyond the trivial search, and from a reasoned and informed place, you can feel confident knowing that the ancient oaks, the elegant birches, and the stout pines that your home is adorned with are receiving the best care possible. It is not just as important to find someone nearby as it is to find the right someone for the trees themselves.